Best Dog Boots for Winter and Hot Pavement

We may earn a commission when you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you. Learn more

Dog boots protect paws from hot pavement in summer and from ice, snow and road salt in winter. This guide covers when boots help, how to measure your dog, how to get your dog used to wearing them, the boots we list, and the paw problems that mean a trip to the vet.

The short answer: for hiking, hot pavement and year-round walks, the Ruffwear Grip Trex was the top pick of two review sites that tested boots hands-on. For snow, ice and salt, the Muttluks Original All-Weather set of four is light and flexible, but testers found it less breathable, so it is better for cold days. Measure every paw with your dog standing, train indoors first, and never leave boots on an unsupervised dog.

How we wrote this: the paw care advice comes from the AKC (including its chief veterinarian), the ASPCA, the AVMA, VCA Animal Hospitals, PetMD (vet-reviewed), Humane World for Animals, the RSPCA and the PDSA, all linked where they are used and checked on 30 October 2026. Product notes come from the makers’ pages and from hands-on tests by Whole Dog Journal and CleverHiker. We did not test the boots ourselves, and we do not show prices or ratings.

Does my dog need boots?

Not every dog needs boots, but they help on surfaces that can hurt paws. The AKC puts it simply: if you would not walk barefoot on a surface, such as a scalding or freezing sidewalk, neither should your dog. VCA says foot pads, though tough, can burn on a scorching summer sidewalk or on icy surfaces in winter.

Hot pavement

The AKC quotes its chief veterinarian, Dr. Jerry Klein: pavement, like asphalt or artificial grass, can become hot enough to cause blisters and burn a dog’s paw pads. The same article says that when the air is 86 degrees, asphalt can register 135 degrees. To check, Dr. Klein suggests placing your hand on the pavement for ten seconds: if it is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for your dog. PetMD quotes a UK vet who uses seven seconds with the palm of your hand.

Boots are not the first fix. The AVMA and the ASPCA both advise avoiding hot asphalt and walking in the cooler hours of the day, and the AKC suggests grassy or shady areas. When you do need boots in summer, the AKC suggests lightweight boots that follow the shape of the foot, and PetMD’s vet advises breathable fabric, since dogs sweat through their paws. PetMD also notes that paw wax may not protect against burns on the hottest days.

Snow, ice and road salt

The ASPCA warns that winter walks can become dangerous if chemicals from ice-melting products are licked off bare paws, and says booties can also stop sand and salt from lodging between the toes. VCA says salt-based de-icers are toxic if eaten or licked off paws, and very drying to the pads and the skin between the toes. The RSPCA says dog boots protect paws from the cold ground and from rock salt, grit and antifreeze. AKC adds that icy conditions can cause cuts and scrapes.

Boots or not, wash or wipe your dog’s paws after winter walks. Humane World for Animals says to wipe them with a damp towel before your dog licks them, and to call a vet at once if your dog eats rock salt. Antifreeze is deadly to dogs; if you think your dog has licked any, the ASPCA says to contact your vet or ASPCA Poison Control at (888) 426-4435 immediately.

How to measure your dog for boots

Fit is the biggest reason boots fail. Always use the maker’s own size chart, as VCA advises, because brands measure differently:

• Width (Ruffwear, Kurgo and others). The AKC suggests pressing your dog’s paw onto a sheet of paper so the foot splays as it does when walking, tracing it, and measuring across the widest part.
• Length (Muttluks). Muttluks asks you to stand the front paw on paper with full weight, mark the heel and the longest nail, and measure between the marks.
• Front and rear. Front paws are often larger than rear paws, so measure all four. Boots sold in pairs, like the Grip Trex, let you buy different sizes for front and back.

Then do a test run indoors. The AKC says to check whether the paws stay in the boots or slip out. VCA says boots should be easy to get on and off, but not so easy that your dog kicks them off. Boots that are too big can rub and change how your dog walks.

How to get your dog used to boots

Many dogs walk oddly in boots at first. The AKC says it may take a little time, but with patience and rewards most dogs adapt. Its boot guide suggests these steps:

1. Let your dog sniff the boots. Praise and give high-value treats so the boots mean good things.
2. Start with one boot. Once your dog is used to the feeling, add the others.
3. Wear them indoors for short periods. Build up the time a little with each session.
4. Watch for stress or discomfort. Stop, adjust or go back a step if your dog seems unhappy.

The AKC’s hot pavement article also says many dogs need time to adjust before the first outing, so start training before the season you need them.

Our picks

Ruffwear Grip Trex: best for hiking and hot pavement

Ruffwear’s everyday hiking boot has a Vibram rubber sole, a breathable polyester mesh upper and one hook-and-loop strap, and is sold in pairs so front and rear can be sized separately. Ruffwear says to measure across the widest part of the paw while your dog stands and to size down if between sizes. Whole Dog Journal tested six designs and named it the best: it stayed put, and the test dog could walk, trot and run normally. CleverHiker used it on several thru-hikes and found some of the best traction it tested. The downsides: it can rub around the dewclaws, and the single strap leaves less room to adjust the fit.

Muttluks Original All-Weather: best for snow, ice and salt

A set of four nylon boots with treated leather soles and self-tightening straps. Muttluks sizes them by paw length and says they are machine washable, with the leather retreated after each wash. Whole Dog Journal named them its best for winter and liked the light weight and flexible sole, but found the cuff can chafe at the wrist, that they are easy to overtighten, and that they are less breathable, so it would not use them in the heat. CleverHiker found they resisted punctures and fit small feet well.

Also worth a look

• Ruffwear Polar Trex is Ruffwear’s winter boot, sold in pairs, with a gaiter and a rubber sole with lugs for winter traction. Ruffwear says to keep it for outdoor use only. The reviews we found cover an older version with a Vibram sole.
• PawZ Rubber Dog Boots are thin, stretch-on natural rubber boots with no sole, sold 12 to a pack and meant to be thrown away when worn. PawZ says they are not to be left on while your dog rests or sleeps. Whole Dog Journal suggests a light rubber boot like PawZ may also help with traction on slippery floors indoors.

We left out the Kurgo Blaze: its maker page is no longer live, and testers disagreed (CleverHiker praised its traction, Whole Dog Journal found the sole too stiff and did not recommend it).

Using boots safely

• Check fit during the walk. Ruffwear suggests checking the strap tension about 15 minutes in. Whole Dog Journal says to take the boots off and check your dog’s paws whenever you stop for a rest, and not to overtighten them.
• Never leave boots on an unsupervised dog. They are for walks, not for wearing all day.
• Keep paws dry. The AKC warns that boots which trap water can raise the risk of yeast infections between the toe pads.
• Not every dog will accept boots. The PDSA and VCA both say to use boots if your dog will tolerate them. A vet-approved paw balm before winter walks, and washing paws afterwards, are other options the ASPCA and VCA suggest.

Signs your dog needs a vet

VCA says that if your dog licks at a pad or limps, the pad may be torn, punctured or burned. PetMD lists limping, licking a paw, holding a paw oddly, a red, ulcerated or bleeding pad, and crying out when using the leg as signs of a paw burn, and notes that blisters from hot pavement can appear a few days later. See your vet if a pad is discolored, blistered, cracked or bleeding, or if the tissue under it shows. VCA says severe burns must be treated by a vet, and if your dog may have licked antifreeze or eaten rock salt, call your vet straight away rather than waiting for symptoms.

FAQ

How do I know if the pavement is too hot for my dog?

Put the back or palm of your hand on it. The AKC’s chief vet suggests ten seconds, and a UK vet quoted by PetMD suggests seven: if it is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for your dog’s paws.

Should front and back boots be the same size?

Not always. Front paws are often larger than rear paws, so measure all four. Some boots come in pairs so you can buy different sizes; Muttluks sizes its sets of four from the front paw.

Why does my dog walk strangely in boots?

Many dogs walk oddly at first. Train indoors in short sessions with treats, starting with one boot. If your dog still walks stiffly after training, the boots may be too big, too tight or too stiff; Whole Dog Journal saw a stilted gait with a stiff-soled boot.

Can my dog wear boots all day?

No. Use them for walks and take them off afterwards. Whole Dog Journal says not to leave them on an unsupervised dog, and PawZ says its boots are not meant to be worn while your dog rests or sleeps.

For leashes, harnesses and carriers, see our leash, harness and carrier buying guide.