How to Get a Dog Used to Wearing Boots, Step by Step

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Most dogs do not like boots at first. Put four on at once and many will freeze, high step around the room or try to pull them off. That reaction is normal, and it usually fades with short, calm practice at home. This guide walks through a step by step plan, from getting your dog relaxed about having their paws touched to a first walk outside, plus the fit checks that stop a boot from rubbing or falling off.

How we wrote this: the training steps come from Best Friends Animal Society (its winter care guide and its guide to dogs who are sensitive to touch) and the UK rescue charity Battersea Dogs and Cats Home (its guide to introducing a collar, lead or harness, which uses the same method). Fit and wear tips come from the Whole Dog Journal dog shoe test by Lisa Rodier. All were checked on 1 November 2026. We did not test these boots ourselves, and we do not show prices or ratings.

Why boots feel so strange to a dog

Dogs use their feet for far more than walking. Whole Dog Journal points out that paws give a dog traction, stability and steering, and that dogs feel the ground through them. Cover the pads and that feedback changes, so a dog in new boots often lifts their feet high or walks stiffly. WDJ looks for boots with flexible, not too dense soles and soft uppers for exactly this reason: a stiff, tall boot changed the gait of its test dog, while lighter, more flexible boots let him walk, trot and run normally.

The other half is handling. Best Friends notes that some dogs dislike having their paws touched at all, sometimes because of a past bad experience such as a nail trim cut too short. A dog like that needs paw handling practice before a boot ever comes near them.

What you need

• Boots that fit. Measure front and back paws before you buy (more on this below).
• Rewards your dog really likes, such as a favorite toy, play or praise. Best Friends suggests something high value, because this is hard work for many dogs.
• A quiet room with a floor that is not slippery, and time for sessions of five minutes or less.

How to get a dog used to wearing boots, step by step

Step 1: Get your dog comfortable with paw handling

Best Friends says to start by getting your dog used to having their paws touched, increasing the handling slowly. Its touch sensitivity guide gives the method: keep sessions short, around five minutes at first, and begin with spots your dog already enjoys, such as the shoulders. Work down the leg over several sessions. When you reach the paw, touch it for only a second or two and reward while your hand is there; when your hand comes away, the rewards stop. Stop before your dog gets uncomfortable. If they move away or show stress, back up to an easier spot and try again later.

Battersea uses the same idea for gear: touch your dog gently on the neck, chest and legs, reward, and stop before your dog becomes uncomfortable.

Step 2: Let your dog meet the boots

Before anything goes on a foot, put the boots on the floor and reward your dog for sniffing or coming close. Battersea suggests this for a harness: place the new item down, reward small steps such as looking, stepping closer and touching, and let your dog explore it without pressure. Avoid leaning over your dog; stay beside them and move slowly.

Step 3: One boot on, reward, boot off

Best Friends gives a simple routine: put on one boot, reward your dog, then take the boot off. Repeat until your dog looks happy when the boot goes on. At this stage you can leave the strap loose or barely closed. If the sound of the hook and loop strap worries your dog, Battersea’s tip for harness clips applies: reward after each sound until it becomes familiar.

Step 4: Walk around the room in one boot

Next, Best Friends says to ask your dog to move around the room in that one boot, rewarding as they go. Expect some odd steps and shaking of the foot. Keep it short and upbeat, and play or do a little training while the boot is on, the same way Battersea suggests building up time in a new collar.

Step 5: Add one boot at a time

Once your dog walks happily in one boot, Best Friends says to repeat the process, adding one boot at a time, until your dog walks around the room in all four. Some dogs move through this in a few sessions; others need many more. Battersea says to go at your dog’s pace, since some dogs accept new gear quickly and others need more time.

Step 6: Short walks outside, then longer ones

Start outdoors with a short, easy walk on a surface your dog knows. Whole Dog Journal advises introducing boots long before your dog needs them for a specific trip or season, and keeping your dog busy with play or rewards while they get used to them. On longer walks or hikes, WDJ says to look at the boots often to check they are staying in place, and to take them off and check the paws whenever you stop for a rest.

Fit checks that make training easier

A boot that pinches or slips will undo your training, because your dog learns that boots feel bad. From the WDJ test:

• Measure twice, front and back. Front paws are often a little larger than hind paws, so WDJ suggests a brand that sells boots in pairs, letting you buy different sizes for front and back. Every maker publishes its own measuring guide; use it.
• Do not overtighten. WDJ says this plainly. In its test, one boot was easy to overtighten while trying to stop it slipping, and the dog balked and seemed in distress until the strap was loosened.
• Watch the wrist. WDJ prefers a boot that fastens just below the wrist on the front legs. Tall or stiff cuffs can rub the carpal pad (the small pad at the back of the wrist) and affect how the joint moves.
• Look for the right shape. A boot that is too narrow across the widest part of the paw squeezes; one that is too big slides around. WDJ found some brands run narrow, so check the maker’s width as well as the length.
• Label each boot. Boots do fall off. WDJ suggests writing your phone number inside each one with a permanent marker or a laundry proof label.

Which boots are easiest to start with

For a first pair, light and flexible usually beats heavy and armored. In the Whole Dog Journal test, the Ruffwear Grip Trex was the top pick: a low profile boot with a mesh upper and a flexible rubber sole that WDJ found easy to put on, secure without overtightening, and comfortable enough for its test dog to walk, trot and run. The Muttluks Original All-Weather boots have a very flexible sole and suit cold weather, but WDJ found the ribbed cuff rides a little high on the wrist, can catch nails and is easy to overtighten, so take extra care with fit during training. For winter, rain and summer picks, see our best dog boots guide.

When to stop and get help

• Fear signs: Battersea says that if your dog freezes, panics or growls, stop and seek support. If fear, frustration or discomfort carries on, or progress stalls, it suggests a qualified behaviorist.
• Possible pain: Battersea says that avoiding equipment altogether can be a sign of pain, so speak to your vet to rule out medical problems.
• Paw problems: if you see redness, rubbing, blisters, cuts or limping when the boots come off, stop using them and see your vet. Boots can protect a paw while it heals, WDJ notes, but your vet should decide that.
• Never unsupervised: WDJ says not to leave boots on a dog who is not being watched.

Why boots are worth the effort

Best Friends says boots can protect feet from sharp ice, from snow balling up between the pads and from ice melting products, which can irritate and burn pads and can be poisonous if licked off. In summer, its hot weather guide suggests testing the ground with your hand: if you cannot keep it there for more than a few seconds, it is probably too hot to walk your dog. Boots are not a reason to walk on pavement that hot; pick a cooler time of day. Boots also help some dogs with sensitive pads, WDJ notes, and can add grip for senior dogs, though for slippery floors indoors it suggests grippy socks or light disposable rubber boots instead.

Does your dog need a cone? See how to help a dog get used to a cone: step by step training, fit, home set up, meals, sleep and walks.

New coat, unhappy dog? See how to get a dog used to wearing a coat: fit first, then one step at a time with rewards.

FAQ

How long does it take a dog to get used to boots?

It varies. Battersea says some dogs accept new gear quickly and others need more time, so go at your dog’s pace. Keep sessions to about five minutes, as Best Friends suggests, and start well before the season or trip you need the boots for.

Why does my dog walk funny in boots?

Dogs feel the ground through their paws, and a boot changes that feeling, so many dogs high step at first. That usually fades with practice. If the odd gait does not ease, the boot may be too stiff, too tall or too tight; WDJ found stiff, tall boots made its test dog walk stiffly.

How do I keep dog boots from falling off?

Start with the right size for each paw, front and back, using the maker’s measuring guide. A boot that keeps slipping is usually the wrong size or shape. Tighten the strap until it is snug, but WDJ warns against overtightening; check the boots often on walks.

Should I put all four boots on at once?

Not at first. Best Friends suggests one boot at a time: on, reward, off, then walking around the room in one boot, then adding one boot at a time until your dog is comfortable in all four.

Can my dog wear boots all day?

WDJ says not to leave boots on a dog who is not supervised, and to take them off and check the paws at rest stops. Use boots for walks and outings, not as all day wear.

Do dogs really need boots in snow?

Not every dog, but Best Friends says boots can protect feet from sharp ice, snow balls between the pads and ice melting products. Without boots, it says to wipe your dog’s feet after every winter walk. See our guide to walking a dog in winter.

The same slow, reward based method works for other gear too. See how to muzzle train a dog, our best dog boots guide, and the best dog paw washers for muddy and salty days.