How to Get a Cat Used to Wearing a Collar

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Most cats notice a new collar at once. Some scratch at it, some freeze or walk backwards, and a few ignore it within minutes. With the right kind of collar, a careful fit and a few short, pleasant sessions, most cats settle. This guide covers whether your cat needs a collar at all, which type is safe, how to fit it, how to introduce it step by step, how to keep checking it as your cat grows, and the signs that mean the collar should come off and you should talk to your vet.

How we wrote this: the safety advice comes from PDSA’s vet guide to cat collars and Battersea’s pages on cat microchipping and cat training. Product facts come from our product pages, which cite the makers and a named reviewer. We put their advice in our own words and mark our own tips with “in our view”. All were checked on 2 November 2026. We did not test any collars for this guide, and we do not show prices or ratings.

First: does your cat need a collar?

It is worth asking before you buy. PDSA, the UK vet charity, says plainly that it does not recommend collars for cats. Its reasons: a cat can catch a collar on a branch or fence while climbing and get trapped or hurt in the struggle, a collar worn all the time can rub the skin sore and wear away fur, and a loose collar can end up caught in the mouth or around a front leg, which can cause serious injury.

PDSA also points out that most reasons for a collar have a safer answer. For getting a lost cat home, a microchip is the most reliable ID, because a collar or tag can fall off (more on that below). For a private cat flap, a microchip cat flap opens only for your cat, with no collar key to lose. And for flea control, PDSA says flea collars are often unreliable and a vet-approved treatment is a better choice.

In our view, a collar still makes sense for some households: an indoor cat that sometimes slips outside, a cat you want to carry a visible “I have a home” tag, or a cat flap that only works with a collar key. If you decide to go ahead, the rest of this guide is about doing it as safely as possible.

Choose a breakaway (quick-release) collar only

PDSA says any cat collar should be quick release: if the cat gets caught, the buckle comes apart so the cat is less likely to be hurt. It also warns against collars with elastic sections, which it says can cause serious injuries, and against cheap collars whose parts can come off and be swallowed. Decorations such as studs and glitter can rub and itch, so a plain collar is kinder.

Two breakaway collars in our catalog show what to look for:

• Red Dingo Reflective Fish Breakaway Cat Collar: a half-inch nylon collar with a safety-release clip that Red Dingo says is designed to undo at 2 kg (about 4.4 lb). Red Dingo sells it for cats from 6 months and has a separate kitten collar.
• Rogz GlowCat Safety Release Collar: a reflective, glow-in-the-dark collar whose break-away buckle has three load settings, so you can choose how easily it opens. Its reviewer noted it may be too big for very young kittens.

For more on choosing one, see our guide to the best breakaway cat collars.

Fit it correctly

PDSA’s rule is that you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably under the collar. Tighter than that can hurt; looser and it can catch on things or slip over the jaw or a leg. It adds a useful detail: check the fit again after a few minutes, because many cats hunch up when the collar first goes on and the fit changes once they relax.

In our view, trim or tuck any long spare strap so your cat cannot chew it, and fit the collar on the floor or your lap rather than holding your cat up in the air, so the moment feels as normal as possible.

Step 1: let your cat meet the collar first

Battersea’s training advice is to use positive reinforcement: reward the behaviour you want, break the goal into small steps and work at your cat’s pace without expecting too much too soon. Its example is a cat carrier, rewarding a look, then a step towards it, then a sniff. The same idea works for a collar.

In our view, start with the collar off. Leave it near your cat’s bed or favourite spot for a day or two so it smells familiar. When your cat sniffs it, reward straight away with something your cat likes, such as a short game with a wand toy, a stroke if your cat enjoys that, or a small treat. Battersea stresses that the reward should come immediately, or the cat will not link it to what it just did.

Step 2: short wear sessions, with you there

When your cat is relaxed around the collar, put it on during a calm moment, check the two-finger fit, then reward and start a game or a cuddle at once. Keep the first session to a few minutes and take the collar off while your cat is still calm, not while it is scratching or upset, so the session ends on a good note.

In our view, build up over several days: a few minutes, then ten, then half an hour, always while you can watch. Distract gentle pawing with play rather than taking the collar off at once. Stop and go back a step if your cat freezes, hides or seems frightened.

Step 3: longer wear and the outdoor question

Only when your cat wears the collar indoors without fuss should it go outside in it, if your cat goes out at all. Check the fit again first. PDSA’s warnings about branches and fences are the reason for breakaway buckles, and its advice is also to check the quick release regularly, since dirt and grease can block it so that it no longer opens as easily as it should.

In our view, test the buckle by pulling it apart by hand every week or two. If you choose a collar with adjustable release settings, like the Rogz, set it so it opens without a long struggle; a buckle set too firm defeats the point.

Never punish, and never force it

Battersea says cats should not be punished in training: they rarely link the telling-off with what they did, and it can make them wary of you or the place where it happened. If your cat fights the collar, shouting or holding it down will only make the collar something to fear. Go back a step and make each session shorter.

In our view, some cats never accept a collar, and that is fine. A microchip still identifies them, and an indoor cat may not need a collar at all.

Bells, tags and the microchip

Many breakaway collars come with a bell. Both collars above include a bell and a ring for an ID tag, per the makers. PDSA notes that owners often add a bell to protect wildlife, and suggests other steps too: keep bird feeders at least 2 m from trees and bushes, put feeders on poles a cat cannot climb, keep your cat in around sunrise and sunset, and play hunting games indoors. In our view, a bell is optional; take it off if your cat seems bothered by the noise.

An ID tag helps a neighbour call you, but it is not your cat’s main ID. PDSA says a microchip is the most dependable way to be reunited, because a collar or tag can be lost; keep the chip details up to date. Battersea explains that the chip is about the size of a grain of rice, sits under the skin and links a unique code to your contact details, so vets and rescue centres can scan it. It adds that in England, cats must be microchipped before they are 20 weeks old. In the US, ask your vet about microchipping and registration.

If your cat uses a collar-key cat flap, see how to teach a cat to use a cat flap; a microchip flap avoids the collar key entirely.

Kittens: check the fit as they grow

Kittens grow fast, and a collar that fits one week can be tight a few weeks later. In our view, check the two-finger fit every few days while your kitten is growing, and buy a collar made for kittens rather than an adult collar on its smallest setting. Red Dingo, for example, sells its adult collar for cats from 6 months and a separate kitten collar.

When to take the collar off and see your vet

Take the collar off and check your cat’s neck if you see any of these:

• Rubbing, redness, sores or hair loss under the collar. PDSA notes that a collar worn all the time, especially if badly fitted, can make the skin sore and wear the fur away.
• A collar caught in the mouth or around a front leg. Remove it carefully, and if there is any wound or limping, see your vet.
• Constant scratching at the neck or head shaking that goes on after the first few days.

Skin problems under a collar can have other causes, so ask your vet rather than guessing, and leave the collar off until it is checked.

FAQ

How long does it take a cat to get used to a collar?

Many cats stop noticing a collar within a few days of short, rewarded sessions; others take a couple of weeks. Go at your cat’s pace, as Battersea advises for all cat training.

Should my cat wear a collar all the time?

PDSA warns that constant wear can rub and that collars can snag, and it does not recommend collars at all. If you use one, choose a breakaway type and check the fit and the skin underneath often.

How tight should a cat collar be?

PDSA says you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably under it, and to check again after a few minutes, once your cat has relaxed.

Are breakaway collars safe for cats?

They are much safer than collars that do not open, which is why PDSA says only quick-release collars should be used. Check the buckle regularly, as dirt can stop it opening.

Walking your cat outdoors? A harness is safer than a collar for that; see how to harness train a cat and the best cat harnesses.