How to Brush a Cat That Hates Being Brushed

We may earn a commission when you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you. Learn more

Some cats purr through every brushing session. Others flatten their ears at the sight of a brush, swish their tail after two strokes, or turn round and bite. This guide covers why cats resist, gentler tools, a slow step by step plan, tangles and mats, and when a vet or groomer should take over.

How we wrote this: the grooming steps come from Battersea’s cat grooming guide and its guide to stroking and interacting with cats, both written by its Feline Behaviour Team. The body language signs come from Best Friends Animal Society’s guide to cat body language, and the notes on fur loss from its page on hair loss in cats. All were checked on 1 November 2026. We did not test any brushes or gloves ourselves, and we do not show prices or ratings.

Health first. If your cat suddenly hates being touched in one spot, has sore or bald patches, or has thick mats close to the skin, see your vet before you start. Brushing is coat care, not a treatment, and a cat in pain will not learn to enjoy it.

Why some cats hate being brushed

Battersea explains that many cats like short, gentle contact and become overstimulated if it goes on too long, and that some kinds of touch feel unpleasant to them. A cat that growls, hisses, swipes or bites during brushing is usually asking you to stop or change what you are doing.

Other common reasons:

• The wrong spot. Battersea’s guide to stroking says most cats enjoy touch on the cheeks, head and chin, some accept the back, chest and tail, and most dislike the tummy and the base of the tail. Many brushing battles start in those last two areas.
• No way out. Battersea says cats feel safest when they have choice and control, and that holding or restraining a cat can make it lash out to get free.
• A painful tool or a painful tangle. Wire bristles pressed too hard, or a brush caught in a knot, teach a cat that the brush hurts.
• Age and pain. Battersea notes that older cats can be extra sensitive to grooming, because muscle loss or arthritis can leave them tender and their hips and spine bony.

Does your cat need brushing at all?

Battersea says healthy short-haired cats usually do not need brushing unless they get into something, though short, relaxed sessions can help with shedding. Medium and long-haired cats are different: they need regular grooming, because their fur mats more easily and some can get sores if they are not groomed. Battersea suggests about two to three sessions a week for medium and long coats, more in summer, and extra attention to the undercoat of very thick-coated breeds such as Ragdolls and Norwegian Forest cats.

Choose a tool your cat will accept

Battersea matches tools to coat length: slicker brushes and metal combs with long and short teeth for medium and long coats, a fine-toothed comb for knots, and a bristle brush or short-toothed comb for short coats. For a cat that dislikes brushing, it helps to start soft and work up:

• A soft rubber brush. Rubber nubs feel more like a hand than a brush. In our best cat brush for shedding guide, the KONG Cat ZoomGroom is our pick for cats that dislike brushing.
• A grooming glove. Many cats that run from a brush accept a glove, because it feels like being stroked. See our best grooming glove for dogs and cats guide, which covers the HandsOn Grooming Gloves and the Uproot QuickClean Gloves Pro, and how to use a pet grooming glove.
• A slicker, later. For medium and long coats you will need a slicker or a comb in the end. A small one such as the Safari Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush for Cats is easier to handle around a wary cat than a large one.
• A deshedding tool, last. Undercoat tools such as the FURminator for long hair cats remove a lot of loose hair, but they are not for a cat that is still learning to accept a brush. Bring one in only once brushing is calm.

Step by step: teaching a cat to accept the brush

This plan follows Battersea’s advice: let your cat choose, keep sessions short, mix brushing with stroking, and stop before your cat has had enough. Move to the next step only when your cat is relaxed with the one before. For some cats that takes days, for others weeks.

1. Pick a calm moment. Wait until your cat is relaxed and coming to you for attention, not eating, sleeping, playing or hiding.
2. Let your cat meet the brush. Hold the brush out and let your cat sniff it. Battersea says many cats will rub their face on it to mark it with their scent, which makes it smell familiar. If your cat walks off, try again another day.
3. Stroke first. Stroke your cat on the cheeks and head, where most cats like being touched, so they know you are there to interact.
4. One or two strokes with the brush. Brush gently on the head or cheek in the direction of the fur, then go back to stroking with your hand. Stroke, brush, stroke, brush.
5. Use the three second check. Battersea’s stroking guide suggests pausing after a few seconds of touch. If your cat pushes back into your hand or the brush, carry on. If not, they have probably had enough for now.
6. Add a reward. Battersea suggests a treat to make the session a good experience. Give it during or right after the brushing. If you use food rewards, our sister site inthekibble.com covers treats.
7. Spread out slowly. Once the head and cheeks are easy, brush between the shoulders and along the back. Battersea suggests leaving the tummy alone for most cats, as it is a sensitive area.
8. Re-offer the brush each time. Every time you start again, hold the brush out first. If your cat rubs on it, they are telling you they are happy to go on.
9. Stretch the sessions. Only when your cat is comfortable should sessions get longer. Battersea says you can go longer if your cat is clearly enjoying it, and keep to a regular routine so your cat knows what to expect.

Never hold your cat down to finish a session, and never chase a cat that has walked away. One forced session can undo weeks of slow progress.

Signs to stop

Battersea says a twitching tail or rippling skin along the back means a cat is not happy, and that you should pause and let them relax. Best Friends lists other signs of a stressed cat: rapid blinking, ears turned out or back, the head turned away, a stiff or low body, leaning away, one paw lifted, and a tail that twitches, swishes or is held tight against the body. Battersea adds sudden self-grooming, head shaking, ear rotation and nose licking.

If you see any of these, stop and let your cat settle. Finish on a calm note.

Tangles and mats

Long-haired cats often tangle on the tummy, legs and around the bottom, which are also the areas they least like being touched. Battersea suggests checking these spots, trying short and gentle sessions if tangles are forming, and never forcing the cat. If the fur on the tummy is matting and your cat will not accept brushing there, Battersea says to see your vet for advice.

• Work on a small tangle with a fine-toothed comb, holding the fur near the skin so you do not pull it.
• For heavy or tight mats, or any mat close to the skin, go to your vet or a professional groomer. Do not try to cut mats out with scissors.

Our guide on how to use a dematting comb and mat splitter covers tools for small mats.

Kittens and older cats

Kittens

Battersea recommends starting grooming early, especially with long-haired kittens who will need a lot of it as adults. Start with a soft toothbrush, keep it very brief, stroke between strokes of the brush, and let the kitten move away if they show signs of stress.

Older cats

Older cats may struggle to reach some areas, so even short-haired cats who groomed themselves well may need help. Use a soft bristle brush over the hips and spine, very light pressure, and short sessions. Battersea advises asking your vet if matting or heavy tangling develops.

When to see a vet or groomer

Battersea says to take your cat for a check-up if you notice a change in their fur or in how they groom themselves, such as:

• grooming much more or much less than usual
• mats in places that were not matted before
• grooming that seems uncomfortable
• losing fur, or sore areas and bald spots from overgrooming

Best Friends notes that hair loss in cats has many possible causes, from parasites and allergies to stress, and that only a vet exam can find out which. A cat that suddenly flinches or bites when you brush one spot may be sore there, so mention it to your vet. If your cat needs a trip to the vet or groomer, see how to get a cat into a carrier.

FAQ

How do you brush a cat that does not want to be brushed?

Wait for a relaxed moment, let your cat sniff the brush, then mix a stroke of the hand with a stroke of the brush on the head and cheeks. Stop after a few seconds, reward, and build up slowly. A rubber brush or glove is often easier than a slicker.

Why does my cat bite me when I brush them?

Usually the cat is overstimulated, you have reached a sensitive area such as the tummy or base of the tail, or the brush is pulling. Battersea describes biting and swiping as a cat asking you to stop. If it is new behaviour, ask your vet to check for pain.

How often should I brush my cat?

Battersea suggests two to three times a week for medium and long-haired cats, more in summer. Healthy short-haired cats often need little or no brushing.

Can I cut out my cat’s mats with scissors?

No. Vets advise against scissors because it is easy to cut the skin, as our cat brush guide explains. Leave mats close to the skin to your vet or a professional groomer.

Working on other care tasks? See how to trim cat nails and how to brush a cat’s teeth, which use the same slow, reward-based approach.