How to Get Your Home Ready for a New Kitten: Supplies Checklist

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A new kitten needs surprisingly little on day one, but the few things it does need should be in place before you open the carrier. This checklist covers the supplies to buy, how to set up the first room, the hazards to put away, and the vet visit to book, so the first week is calm for your kitten and for you.

How we wrote this: the checklist follows PDSA’s kitten checklist, its guides on cat collars and poisons and hazards in the home, Battersea’s guide to creating a cat-friendly home, and the Ohio State University Indoor Pet Initiative’s basic indoor cat needs. We put their advice in our own words and mark our own tips with “in our view”. All were checked on 2 November 2026. We did not test any of the products named here ourselves, and we do not show prices or ratings.

The new kitten checklist at a glance

PDSA’s list of supplies to buy before a kitten comes home covers these basics:

• A large, secure carrier
• Litter trays and cat litter
• Food and water bowls
• A bed and some blankets
• Scratching posts, mats or boxes
• Plenty of toys
• Cat furniture such as a cat tree
• A brush or comb

It also lists kitten food. We do not cover food on this site: for what and how much to feed, ask your vet, and see our sister site In The Kibble for food guides. The sections below go through each item in the order you will need it.

1. A carrier for the trip home

The first thing your kitten needs is a safe way to travel. PDSA recommends a large, secure carrier, ideally hard-sided with a lid that opens from the top. In our view, that top lid matters: lifting a kitten in and out from above is easier than coaxing it out of a front door, at the vet and at home.

Put a blanket or towel inside. PDSA notes that a blanket carrying the smell of the breeder’s or shelter’s home can help a new kitten feel safe in its first days, so ask for one when you collect your kitten. Our best cat carrier guide compares hard and soft carriers, and our guide on how to get a cat into a carrier shows how to make the carrier a normal part of home life, so it is not only the box that means the vet.

2. One quiet starter room

PDSA advises limiting a new kitten to one or two rooms to begin with, even if it will later roam the whole house, so it is not overwhelmed and is easy to watch. Let the kitten explore at its own pace, stay nearby, and let it come to you. Once it seems more confident, open up other rooms one at a time.

Set up the starter room before collection day with everything below already in place. PDSA says food, water and toilet areas should all be in different places. Battersea adds that a cat should always be able to reach a hiding place or quiet spot, especially when the house is busy or noisy.

3. Litter box, litter and scoop

The Ohio State Indoor Pet Initiative recommends one litter box per cat, cleaned every day. For a kitten, PDSA advises using the same litter the breeder or shelter used at first and changing over gradually, so ask what they use before collection day.

In our view, start with a simple open box with a low side so a small kitten can climb in easily; a tall or top-entry box can wait until your kitten is bigger. Put the box in a quiet corner of the starter room, away from the bed and bowls, and keep a litter scoop beside it. Our guide on how to litter train a kitten covers the first few days step by step.

4. Bowls and fresh water

PDSA lists food and water bowls among the basics and, as above, says they belong away from the litter box. In our view, wide, shallow bowls that are easy to wash suit a kitten, and a heavy bowl is harder to tip over. If you wonder about fountains, see do cats need a water fountain.

5. A bed and hiding places

A soft bed and a couple of blankets are on PDSA’s list. Battersea suggests giving cats several beds and hiding spaces in different places, such as cardboard boxes, cat igloos and space under furniture, along with places to get up high. It also advises against washing all of a cat’s bedding at once, so the familiar smell stays in the house.

6. Something to scratch

Battersea explains that scratching keeps claws in good condition and also lets a cat leave its scent and visible marks, which helps a home feel familiar and secure, so giving a cat its own things to scratch is a good idea. It suggests a mix of textures, such as sisal posts and corrugated cardboard scratchers.

In our view, put one scratcher in the starter room from day one, next to where your kitten sleeps, since cats often stretch and scratch on waking. A tall, stable post such as the SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post lets a cat stretch out fully as it grows; a post that wobbles tends to get ignored. Our best cat scratching post guide goes further.

7. Toys, and the right way to store them

PDSA suggests plenty of toys. Battersea rates fishing-rod style wand toys with feathers or a small furry lure among the best for play with a cat, partly because they keep your hands clear of teeth and claws.

Battersea also advises putting string and wand toys away after play, since a cat could get tangled in them, and rotating other toys to keep them interesting. A feather wand such as GoCat Da Bird is a good first wand in our view, and our guide on how to play with a cat using a wand toy explains how to run a short play session.

8. A brush or comb

A brush or comb is on PDSA’s list too. In our view, the point at this age is less about the coat and more about getting your kitten used to being handled and brushed while it is small, with a few short, gentle strokes at a time.

9. ID: microchip first, collar optional

PDSA says the best way to be reunited with a cat that strays is a microchip, with your details kept up to date, because a collar or ID tag can be lost. Ask your vet about microchipping at the first visit.

Collars are a choice, not a must. PDSA explains that collars can snag outdoors, rub the skin, or trap a jaw or leg if loose. If you do use one, it says to choose a quick-release (breakaway) type and to check the fit: you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably under it. In our view, a kitten grows fast, so check the fit every few days. A collar such as the Red Dingo Reflective Fish Breakaway Cat Collar has a clip that Red Dingo says is designed to undo at a set load. Our best breakaway cat collar guide compares clips, and how to get a cat used to a collar covers the first wear.

10. Kitten-proof the house

PDSA’s hazards guide lists the things to put away or secure before a kitten arrives. The main ones for a kitten:

• Wires and cables. PDSA says these tempt kittens to chew, and suggests cable covers or blocking access with furniture.
• Plants. PDSA lists lilies among the plants that can cause serious problems, along with others such as daffodils and dracaena. Check every plant in your home, and move or rehome any that are on its list.
• Medicines and cleaning products. PDSA advises storing medicines, supplements, cleaning products and batteries out of reach. It also warns never to use a treatment meant for another species on a cat, and names permethrin, found in some dog flea treatments, as highly toxic to cats.
• Windows and appliances. PDSA advises keeping pets out of rooms with open windows or fitting safety screens, and checking that a cat has not climbed into the washing machine or dryer before you switch it on.

In our view, also put away string, hair ties, rubber bands and sewing thread, and close toilet lids. If you think your kitten has chewed or swallowed something it should not have, call your vet straight away.

11. Book the first vet visit

PDSA suggests finding and registering with a local vet before your kitten arrives, and getting a vet check soon after it comes home. Ask about vaccinations, which PDSA says should be complete before a kitten goes outside, along with microchipping, flea and worm treatment and neutering, which PDSA says can be done from four months old.

In our view, see your vet promptly if your kitten stops eating, has diarrhea or vomiting, seems very quiet, or strains in the litter box. A new kitten can go downhill fast, so do not wait it out.

Nice to have later

These can wait until your kitten has settled:

• A cat tree or shelves. Battersea says cats like high places with a good view. See our best cat trees for indoor cats guide.
• A cat flap. PDSA lists one among home changes, and Battersea suggests a microchip-operated flap to keep neighborhood cats out. Only once your kitten is vaccinated and ready to go out; see how to teach a cat to use a cat flap.

Moving soon? Our guide on how to move house with a cat covers carrier practice, moving day, a settling room and how long to keep your cat indoors.

Decorating for the holidays? Our guide on how to pet-proof a Christmas tree covers anchoring the tree, gates, tinsel, ornaments, lights and tree water.

Adding a second cat? See how to introduce a new cat to your cat.

FAQ

What do I need to buy before bringing a kitten home?

The basics are a secure carrier, a litter box with litter and a scoop, food and water bowls, a bed and blankets, a scratching post, a few toys and a brush. PDSA also suggests registering with a vet before the kitten arrives. Food is the other essential; ask your vet what to feed.

How long should a new kitten stay in one room?

There is no fixed number of days. PDSA advises starting with just a couple of rooms and opening up the rest of the house once your kitten seems more confident.

Should a kitten wear a collar?

It is optional. PDSA says a microchip is the best way to make sure a lost cat comes home, since collars can come off. If you use a collar, PDSA advises a quick-release type that fits with two fingers of space underneath.

More for new cat owners: how to litter train a kitten, how to get a cat into a carrier and our best toys for indoor cats.